Michael Prentice
The Ottawa Citizen

Saturday, July 29, 2006

The Ivy Lea Inn sits on perhaps the most beautiful spot in the Thousand Islands, just outside the village of Ivy Lea on the St. Lawrence River. It is on the water's edge, facing a large bay dotted with small, tree-covered islands. The bay is part of the Canadian Middle Channel through the scenic region. Its waters are usually calm, since they are sheltered from winds by Wellesley Island, a 10-minute boat ride away in the United States.

For almost a century, the inn has been a hostelry for boaters, fishermen and vacationers (and probably a hangout for smugglers for some of that time). It has outlived most such establishments built in an age when the rich had the Thousand Islands pretty well to themselves. Its longevity makes it one of the region's most historic buildings.

In recent years, the two-storey inn fell into disrepair. But now it has been restored by a wealthy couple from Toronto, who have made it the centrepiece of a resort that offers annual docking for boaters, rustic but comfortable cottage accommodation, as well as a fine-dining restaurant in the inn itself.

"I would be embarrassed to tell you," says Joe Pal, who owns the property with his wife, Lucie, when asked how much the couple spent seeking to revive the inn's fortunes.

It's no longer an inn. Its 12 upstairs bedrooms have been converted to storage space, or serve as sleeping quarters for staff. The Pals, who bought the sprawling property last year, have also closed a motel that operated on the grounds in recent years. The inn is now The Captain's Table restaurant, a place for a fine dining. It is surrounded by 10 cottages that rent for as much as $1,800 a week in high season.

Mr. and Mrs. Pal have a luxury summer home on their own island near the inn. Joe Pal, who runs an insurance business, says: "I have been coming to this area since I was a kid. I have travelled all over the world, and I see huge, untapped potential in this region (the Thousand Islands)."

Mr. Pal describes his considerable investment in the Ivy Lea resort as "a labour of love." Asked his goal, he says: "I don't really have one. I wanted to fix it up -- fix the docks, fix the cottages, make it a fine place in which to dine. I believe this is now the nicest restaurant on the water between Kingston and Brockville."

Mr. Pal says he tries to take a hands-off approach with the transformation of the 45-acre property now nearing completion. He says he doesn't come to the Thousand Islands to work. "If you surround yourself with good people, it's not a lot of work."

While the property is no longer an inn, The Pals are leaning toward keeping the name Ivy Lea Inn. The original owner was Walter Visger, from across the river in Alexandria Bay, New York, who offered boat tours of the Thousand Islands for wealthy fishermen. "It was a fine resort in the 1920s," says Mr. Pal.

Sheila Murray, a well-known landscape architect from Toronto, has spent the past 18 months beautifying the property. New trees, gardens and rockeries grace the grounds. A courtyard was recently installed in front of the inn. "I tried to create the look of a European courtyard," Murray said.

Stone slabs found in the grounds have been used to build pathways through the property. Two wooden gazebos have been built for guests and boaters. Timber from British Columbia was used to build an arbour over the waterfront patio. "It's really nice to work for clients who care," says Murray.

Most of the rental cottages existed before the Pals took over. But they have been extensively renovated and refurbished. The aim was to make them comfortable, but not luxurious, says Meredith Grant, manager of cottage rentals. "We wanted them to remain cottages."

All the cottages have two or three bedrooms, and range from $1,000 to $1,800 a week, plus 11-per-cent tax, until mid-September, when rates drop to $800 to $1,600 a week. The cottage rental season runs from mid-May until the end of September.

I had breakfast and dinner at The Captain's Table recently, and was impressed both times. One of the breakfast specialties is to-die-for hashed browns called hashed hodge podge. It came with the eggs benedict, which cost $8. For dinner I had a crab salad ($11). Most expensive item on the dinner menu: A 10-ounce New York strip loin steak and fries for $27. The patio menu includes gourmet pizzas, including smoked duck breast, for $14.

Robert Gobbo, a 30-year-old graduate of Algonquin College's cooking school, is executive chef of The Captain's Table. He says he aims to serve "locally-inspired world cuisine. We serve as many local ingredients as we can."

The Pals have embarked on an exciting project. Judging by progress so far, they seem likely to succeed.

Michael Prentice is an Ottawa writer, and lover of the Thousand Islands.

IF YOU GO

Getting there: The Ivy Lea Resort & Marina is off the Thousand Islands Parkway, just west of Ivy Lea. It is about a 90-minute drive from Ottawa.

Meals: The Captain's Table dining room serves breakfast and dinner. The patio opens from late morning until well into the evening in summer. For breakfast or dinner reservations: Phone 1-613-659-2486.

More information: www.ivylea.ca

Ran with fact box "If you go", which has been appended to the story.

© The Ottawa Citizen 2006